Hole Saw Guide — a practical guide for Australian trades from the team at Power Tools Direct Australia.
Bi-metal, carbide or diamond, the correct RPM for each diameter, and how to stop the plug jamming every single time.
Hole Saw Guide: In this guide
- The right hole saw makes the job trivial
- Types and materials
- Arbors and the pilot bit
- Speed: slower than you think
- Clearing the plug
The right hole saw makes the job trivial
Cutting a 65 mm hole for a downlight through plasterboard, or a 100 mm hole through a stud wall for ducting, is either a thirty second job or a twenty minute fight. The difference is entirely the hole saw. Browse holesaws.
Types and materials
| Type | Cuts | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Bi-metal | Timber, plastic, mild steel, plasterboard | The general purpose default. Affordable, resharpenable-ish |
| Carbide tipped | Hardwood, fibro, stainless, cast iron | Much longer life in abrasive material, higher cost |
| Diamond | Tile, porcelain, stone, glass | Requires water cooling, no teeth to catch |
| Multi-purpose / TCT | Mixed materials on site | Convenient, compromises on each material |
Arbors and the pilot bit
The arbor holds the saw and carries the pilot drill. Most brands use a common thread, but quick-change systems are brand specific and genuinely worth having if you swap sizes often.
The pilot bit does two jobs: it starts the hole and it keeps the saw centred. A worn pilot means the saw wanders and grabs, which is how wrists get hurt.
Cut a shallow ring first to establish the kerf, then commit. Starting a hole saw at full depth is how they skate across the surface.
Speed: slower than you think
Hole saws are large-diameter cutters, and the rim speed at the teeth is high even at modest RPM. Running too fast burns teeth and glazes the material.
| Diameter | Timber | Steel |
|---|---|---|
| 20–30 mm | 600–900 rpm | 300–450 rpm |
| 40–65 mm | 400–600 rpm | 150–250 rpm |
| 75–100 mm | 250–400 rpm | 100–150 rpm |
| 100 mm+ | 150–250 rpm | Under 100 rpm, with lubricant |
Clearing the plug
The plug jamming inside the saw is the most common annoyance. Options:
- Buy a saw with ejection slots and use a screwdriver through them
- Use a quick-change arbor with a spring ejector
- Cut partway, break the plug out, then finish — works well in timber
- Back the saw out regularly to clear chips before they pack solid
Tile and porcelain
Never use a toothed hole saw on tile. Use a diamond hole saw, keep it wet, start at an angle to establish a groove, then bring it upright.
Dry diamond bits exist and work, but they wear far faster and generate silica dust that needs controlling.
Safety
A hole saw that binds will spin the drill violently. Use the side handle, brace properly, and use a drill with an anti-kickback clutch for large diameters. This is one of the genuinely underrated injury risks in drilling.
Cutting holes this week?
Bi-metal, carbide and diamond hole saws plus arbors and kits.
The bottom line
Bi-metal, carbide or diamond, the correct RPM for each diameter, and how to stop the plug jamming every single time. Everything we sell is genuine Australian stock with full manufacturer warranty, dispatched same day on orders placed before 1pm AEST from our Sydney warehouse. Standard delivery is $15.99, express is $32.55, and delivery is free on orders over $1,000.
Not sure which option suits your work? Talk to our team — we are tradies too. You can also browse the full power tool range, read the FAQs, or set up a trade account for ongoing pricing.
Frequently asked questions
What hole saw for downlights?
A 65–90 mm bi-metal or purpose-made plasterboard cutter, run at low speed. Check the fitting’s cut-out dimension first.
Can bi-metal hole saws cut stainless?
Slowly, with lubricant, and they will not last long. Carbide is the right choice for stainless.
Why does my hole saw keep burning?
Too much speed and not enough chip clearance. Slow down and back out regularly to clear the swarf.
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